More Temples Please

The alarm was set for 7.30am, what we thought was an early morning, but is nothing compared to the swathes of people that descend on Angkor Wat for the sunrise trying to catch that picture perfect moment. Without breakfast we met our tuk tuk driver for the day, Mr Cheat. We swiftly haggled him down to $15 and were on our way. Everywhere you go in South-East Asia the tuk tuks tend to differ in some respect, and in Cambodia tuk tuks are literally just mopeds with a carriage on the back, a slightly disconcerting but stupidly fun way to travel plus a great way to see the sights since you have 360 degree vision.

We arrived just before 9am and the heat was already beating down. As you traverse the steps and head down the walkway you can’t help but stare in awe as the temple stretches across the horizon, personally I was dazed into a reflectiveness on religion, tourists, architecture, and history. It’s hard to imagine looking at it teeming with tourists that it used to be a holy place, that it used to be peaceful, that it was built centuries ago by the human hand.

We wandered around Angkor Wat for around two hours, taking our time and soaking up the history and the incredible buildings, unlike anything I’ve seen before. It’s huge and there probably isn’t a single inch of it where painstaking effort wasn’t taken to carve the stone into a religious symbol. It’s interesting because there are symbols from both Hindu and Buddhism, the two most interesting religions in the world in my opinion, as the temple has been used to worship both in the past. The two religions share a lot of symbols and similarities; they have gone hand in hand in quite a few temples we’ve visited in our time in Asia but nothing like this. Having become increasingly interested in religion in my time in travel not as a follower but simply as someone who loves fantasy, their colourful history fascinates me, as well as observing the human behaviour surrounding it, Angkor Wat was truly stunning and stoked the fire in my imagination. I can see the job title religious historian in my future.

After Angkor Wat we checked out Bayon temple, this temple has a similar history to Angkor Wat in that it has also been used to worship both Buddhism and Hinduism in it’s history. The most standout formation of the Bayon temple are the colossal faces that stare out passively from the top of the towers, facing north, east, south, and west.

It saddens me in a way that these temples have been degraded to a tourist beehive and a money maker. Although admittedly that is a cynical way of looking at it. I much prefer to look at it as though they’re the sharing the temples with us for our pleasure and as an unselfish act. If I was a Monk in Cambodia I would be pissed off however that I’m denied the opportunity to worship at such an incredible place in peace, even if being pissed off is against their religion.

Next up we visited Baphuon temple, smaller than the others and not as impressive, but I’m sure it’s hard for the little guy being so close to Angkor and Bayon having to compete. You weren’t actually allowed inside, I assume there as an inside, but it was a pyramidical (I created this word, make sure to give me credit ;)) structure with for sets of stairs on each facing. We walked along an elevated stone walkway to reach the temple also which was impressive. Sadly by this point the weather was having it’s way with us. Southern Laos was an oven, Cambodia is the surface of the sun. At around 1pm we retired to the safety of the hotel for a shower, a cool down, and food.

I’d like to mention here, since I forgot earlier, a really memorable moment (the irony..) where we picked up my favourite souvenir so far. As we ate in the shaded tents lined up a few hundred metres from Angkor Wat we were constantly pestered by children to buy bracelets, postcards and magnets. We’ve been told not to buy from children because it encourages parents to keep them out of school, amongst other things. There was no temptation to go against this as obviously I believe these kids should be in school, and what they were selling was just crap. Christina was writing a postcard at the same time a little boy came over and tried to sell us one, she showed the him the one she was currently writing and apologised. After trying to sell us some anyway he started to enquire into what she was writing, showing a genuine interest. He then proceeded to draw a picture of Angkor Wat in his little notepad and gave us it for free. After some deliberation I decided to give him a dollar for it, thinking that it might be encouragement and a lesson that creating things can bring reward whereas selling rubbish won’t. I like to think of myself as a teacher and a guide obviously. However writing this I can’t help but feel he does this for all the tourists and rakes it in, I’m okay with that as it means he’s already learned the lesson I was trying to teach.

At the hotel we had a potato curry each, I ordered Khmer potato curry and Christina ordered a Burmese one (these could easily be the other way round, I can’t remember). Either way, Christina’s came with actual crinkle cut chips in the curry itself and mine didn’t so I was ultimately jealous. The rest of the day was spent exploring Siem Reap, checking out some markets, shops, Blue Pumpkin bakery, as well as having a few more beers on the ever lightened, ever slightly rowdy pub street.

In the morning we set to depart Siem Reap, we would have loved to stay but there were far too many temptations to waste money on incredible food and beer. In the grand scale of the trip we couldn’t condone it. We did however decide it would be a great place to visit again on a normal holiday, living in luxury for cheap and eating all the incredible food. I definitely can’t wait to return.

The three V’s

So it was time to leave Luang Prabang and start a new adventure! As sad as I was to leave I was also ready to explore somewhere new. However we had a very bumpy ride through hills and mountains to contend with first. We were arranged to meet for our bus at 7am so decided to wake up at 5am to watch the alms giving that happens every morning. The monks gather and then walk the streets collecting food that is charitably donated by the locals. I thought it would be a wonderful thing to see but it is in fact a quite horrible sight to watch. A large majority of the tourists, and a large majority of these being tourists from China or Malaysia, were so rude. It was infuriating. They would literally point their big cameras right in the faces of the monks and snap a photograph, the flash going off in their face. They even blocked the path at one point. I deliriously wanted to get my flash out and take photos in their faces, see how they like it. However they were so close to the monks that I would have just been adding to the issue so instead had to grit my teeth and bite my tongue. At least I had my cinnamon bun I preordered to look forward to right.. 

Apparently not. When we arrived at the bakery they didn’t have any cinnamon buns. Why then, I ask, did they allow us to preorder two yesterday and not save two for the morning? With no time to get breakfast from anywhere else we had to settle for the fine cuisine of Oreos for breakfast. Not allowing it to dampen my spirits, they are never damp I assure you, I enjoyed my Oreos thoroughly. 

I had started to read It by Stephen King so that and Spotify kept me entertained on our seven hour journey. We stopped off at the loo with a view, which simply has to have the most grandiose views of all porcelain thrones. It’s a toilet on top of a small mountain with a hole cut in the wall so you can ogle over the views while you defecate, or while you urintate if you choose to sit down. 

We were due to arrive in Vang Vieng around 2pm which left us just enough time to go tubing. We were however having money issues due to a certain cash card and we both had been having stomach issues (due to a poor filter), so instead we decided to have a wander around and explore the town. It was probably the worst place we’ve been to so far. It was way more touristy. And when I say touristy I mean the type that like to get smashed and do drugs every night. Not my scene. After a wander and an incredible baguette, if I remember rightly it was: chicken, garlic, bacon, lettuce, tomato, cucumber, and cheese, we headed back to the room to chill out and recharge our batteries. 

That night we met the group and went for a meal. The food wasn’t great but it was our first experience of sitting cross legged on the floor at our table in the traditional style. The others went for drinks but we had an early night before heading for the capital. 

It was another long journey to Vientiane, around 8 hours in total. Some of that time included us visiting the Stupor where Buddhas collarbone is kept, except we got there too late to actually go in and see it.. Good job Stray. 

We also visited the C.O.P.E centre. In this centre they raise awareness and money for Laos people that have suffered from unexplored ordinance, so mines and bombs that were dropped but didn’t explode. Shocking news to me is that Laos is the most bombed country on the world per capita, and has had more bombs dropped on it than the whole of World War Two. I found it incredible that I didn’t know this. Even worse is that Laos is a peaceful country and wasn’t even at war when the bombs were dropped. During the Vietnam war American bombers sometimes couldn’t find their targets, sometimes it was too cloudy or dark, and they couldn’t safely land if they still had their full payload. What was America’s answer to this predicament? Drop the bombs on a nearby peaceful country. I’m full of indignation at the way America has acted and how they have tried to meddle in Asia. But I suppose I shouldn’t be shocked due to the communist influence there is in this part of the world. It was a truly eye opening experience. 

We then had lunch at another Laos barbecue place but it was a case of ordering from the menu at this one. I had a barbecued fish, I’d been interested after seeing them for the first time in Bangkok but hadn’t got around to it yet, it comes whole, skin and all. It was really nice though and came with a brown spicy sauce that was lovely, and I added some spring rolls for good measure. 

Afterwards we settled into our dorm which wasn’t great and was pretty expensive, we’d had much cheaper and better accommodation for 2/3rds of the price. It was an open sixteen bed dorm which got pretty awkward when a couple parallel to us mounted each other in bed. I had a BeerLao as a night cap and just snoozed through what could potentially have been a raucous lovemaking session. 

We were due to leave the next morning, however Christina came down with food poisoning. Something that had affected other members of the group too. Since she couldn’t possibly ride a bus for 9 hours being sick we upgraded to a hotel and strapped ourselves in for another two nights in the capital. Both of our first impressions of the capital were below par so the thought of staying longer had us both a bit down. The first day we spent mostly in bed just recharging the batteries as Christina dealt with her illness. At seven she had gathered up the courage to go for food and we jumped at the chance to have one last meal with some friends we’d made on the tour who were now finished. We went to a posh looking Italian restaurant, not knowing at the time that it is the most highly rated restaurant chain in Laos. I ordered a vegetarian pizza that came with chips on the pizza! It was amazing. Christina pushed the boat out and went for a plain naan bread. 

We used our last day in Vientiane wisely and wandered around the city taking in the sights as we went. We checked out the victory monument, a monument built using concrete that America had flown into the country and the Laos people stole as an act of protest. I had my first noodle soup, which was interesting but I probably wouldn’t order again, and we slowly grew to like the city. In a way I’m glad we stayed as it would have been sad to leave still thinking it was underwhelming. On the night we ate at a bakery/cafe and had our second western dish in a row, only our second  since travelling (I believe). I love Asian food but after a couple of weeks I was craving a burger, of the beef variety. We then shared a caramel slice which was so tasty. Can you tell I’m hungry while I write this? So enthusiastic about food in this moment. 

In the morning we had another early start to head for Kong Lor.